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Archive date: 2026-10-20. First published and updated on 12 November 2026.
A number inside a ring, two letters on a clasp and a tiny symbol beside them may answer different questions. If you own jewellery from different countries, start by identifying the kind of mark. Matching it too quickly to a random online chart can create confusion rather than clarity.
Three questions to ask about a mark
First record what you can actually see: a number, letters, a pictorial mark or a combination. Separate information about the material from a possible business name or indication of origin. One mark need not describe the entire item. With a chain, look at both the clasp and the chain itself, without taking anything apart.
- Fineness: What precious-metal proportion is the indication intended to express?
- Responsible business: Could the mark identify a maker or the person submitting the item?
- Testing: Is the symbol part of a documented official hallmarking system?
Two numerical systems, different rules
The LBMA explains fineness and carat notation as different ways to express gold content. Eighteen carat means 18 parts out of 24, equivalent to 750 parts per thousand. This describes composition, not a price or a weight in grams.
In Germany, section 5 of the fineness law provides for a parts-per-thousand indication when gold or silver jewellery is stamped. This does not mean that every older ring must carry a legible number.
A British example follows a different system. A complete UK hallmark includes a sponsor’s mark, a metal/fineness mark and an assay-office mark; a date letter is optional. British rules are not universal rules for jewellery from every country. A familiar-looking animal or letter alone therefore does not establish an item’s origin.
A simple recording example
Suppose you can read “750” on a pendant, followed by two unclear letters. Write “750; two letters unclear” rather than assigning a maker or date immediately. Photograph both the mark and the whole pendant. If the supposed country of purchase comes only from a family story, record that as an assumption too.
This keeps the original observation separate from its interpretation. A clear photograph can help preparation, but it does not replace examination of the actual object. Even an apparently familiar mark should make sense alongside the item’s construction and material.
Information that helps an assessment
- A photograph of the complete piece and sharp close-ups of every mark.
- The exact position of each mark: ring shank, pendant bail or clasp.
- Any receipt, original box or earlier description, with its date.
- Known repairs or replacement parts; leave unknown details open.
Do not scratch or polish over marks to make them clearer. Bring the piece in its existing condition. During a personal jewellery assessment, ask which indications have been confirmed and what still needs examination. A mark is a useful clue, not a completed purchase offer.
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Sources and further reading
- German law: jewellery fineness markings (§ 5)
- LBMA: fineness and carat notation
- British Hallmarking Council: understanding UK hallmarks
Frequently asked questions
Does a number such as 750 prove the whole piece is genuine?
The number states a claimed fineness. On its own, it proves neither that the stamp is genuine nor that every component has the same alloy. The individual piece still needs to be examined.
Why are there letters or symbols beside a number?
Depending on the marking system, they may identify a maker, a responsible sponsor or an assay office. They do not automatically state another gold percentage. Origin and the complete sequence of marks help establish their meaning.
Do British hallmarking rules also apply to jewellery in Germany?
The British system is a separate example. Its rules cannot simply be applied to an item in Germany because it has several marks. The origin and the system actually used need to be established.
Which photographs help identify unfamiliar marks?
Take sharp photographs of every mark, plus the whole item, its clasp and noticeable joins. Keep any records of origin. Photographs provide clues but do not replace an examination of the material.